景德镇，也许是中国人最熟悉也最陌生的地方。过去千百年来，经过景德镇匠人娴熟的双手处理的光滑黏土被捏成形，在窑炉里烧制，运往世界各地。这些备受青睐的瓷器曾为波斯、蒙古和法国的宫廷增光添彩，它曾是中国最重要的出口商品，与丝绸旗鼓相当。现在，这1800多年的传统文化从根源开始复兴，来自五湖四海的人们在这里停留，城市和山谷涌现出很多工作室，年轻的手艺人正在用自己的技艺，将陶瓷工艺传承下去。
今天跟随我们的48小时旅程，探秘景德镇的陶瓷、生活与艺术吧！
DAY 1 创意乐园
在野商店以日用器物为主，美好而有趣。
03:00 鬼市
/曙光路古玩市场/
每周一凌晨3点，距离景德镇中心不远，人们开始汇集，黑暗中的交易正在进行，据说这种考验交易双方眼力和手感的行家里手的凌晨聚会至少持续了数百年。
今天的景德镇，不同群体和文化在这里汇聚，多元思想和业态在这里交融，便是极具魅力和活力的文化符号。
07:30 油条包麻糍
/胜利路136号/
在酥脆的刚出锅的油条中间塞上软糯的麻糍，舌尖先碰到油条，接着在米馅里温柔落地，咸甜交汇于味蕾之上，地道好味就落了胃。就像景德镇人的生活态度，跨界混搭，开放包容。
09:00 乐天陶社
/珠山区新厂东路139号/
由雕塑家郑祎和安田猛（Takeshi Yasuda）在 2005 年开设于十大瓷厂之一的雕塑瓷厂内，周边被数百个手工作坊和手工艺人包围，包括泥料生产和回收厂、拉坯艺人、泥雕艺人、模具工人、青花艺人、独立手工艺人和艺术家、釉料店、公共气窑、毛笔制作、铁匠、锦盒制作，是对怀揣制陶梦想的年轻人们最有吸引力的地方，同时也在振兴景德镇陶瓷业方面发挥了重要作用。2008年开始，郑祎在工作室的庭院和咖啡馆里开设了周六户外市集，形成了独特的艺术氛围，成为艺术家的聚集地之一。在这里，年轻的艺术家可以通过销售作品谋生，也为即将投入市场的作品试试水。
周六早晨去往乐天市集的道路比平日拥堵些，一周一会的市集吸引了来自世界各地的人来此寻瓷。
12:00 Daily Cherry Coffee
/新厂东路长虹金域中央F5栋15号/
旅途行程再紧张，都想找个地方坐下好好喝杯咖啡。景德镇的咖啡馆不多，大家都喜欢的Daily Cherry Coffee就藏在普通居民小区里，燕麦发酵的醪糟冰拿铁和桂花拿铁口味都不错。
Daily Cherry Coffee 售卖手冲、拿铁和美式，豆子是自己烘的，因为开在乐天集市附近，平时有很多艺术家光顾。
14:00 在野商店
/新厂东路139号雕塑瓷厂内凌霄巷子/
“春起黄玲花，古城有我家，砚台上还有几杯茶……”山东姑娘小野毕业后因为对“美”的感知与追求，全国各地的博物馆看了不少，最大的感触是，作为中国人，能从骨子里感到骄傲又觉得特别美的，就是陶瓷了。为寻陶瓷之美，小野在2016年来到景德镇，2018年在乐天市集开了景德镇第一家民艺与作者器物集合店。店名取自名字里的“野”字，寓意手作器物应当如原野般自由、随性，充满一切未知的可能。店内所售卖的品类多出自国内知名陶艺家或者是匠人之手，也有和老手艺师傅合作制作的剪刀和蔺草扇。
在野商店的主理人小野带着对手艺的追求和向往来到景德镇，她最喜欢做的事就是看器物、挑器物，津津乐道于自家收集来的陶艺家的作品。
16:00 Wood and Tooth Studio
/珠山区缤纷时代2单元1908室/
学建筑的云南人韩青将景德镇的居所与工作室合二为一，半毛坯的房子被她的一双巧手和脑洞大开的细节打理得独一无二，特别舒适。在这里，一边是落在泥土里结实的日子，一边是飘在天空之上的文艺理想。两者因泥土相连，产生了奇妙的联系。景德镇的包容并蓄，也正是如此。
Wood and Tooth的主理人阿布名为韩青，但大家都叫她阿布。精力旺盛、创造力满满的阿布是学建筑出身，却乐此不疲游走于各种工艺之间，通过设计、陶艺、玻璃和金工，创造出了自己的艺术语言，是个彻底的斜杠青年。
19:00 回家吃饭
/珠山区广场北路港逸豪庭4号/
神头、九几、老短、昵头、杀火、作港、作席子……都昌豆冲炖鱼头、小炒黄牛肉、农夫基围虾、土猪肉焖面、砂锅回味鸭，再加上一块入口即化的红烧肉，都是家里的味道。
23:00 老饶炒粉
/珠山区长虹金域中央小区进口/
10多年的老店，老饕们经常光顾。大米熟浆粉浸泡 24小时是最佳食材食用时间，会产生很足的韧性，米粉的米香味也能完全散发出来。经过酱油和豆瓣酱的双重叠加，使得酱味香气更加浓郁，一口下去，唇齿留香。
DAY 2世外”陶”园
无论器皿和品种，每一件都与陶艺家紧密相连，各有千秋。
09:00 桃山房
/珠山区蝶恋园小区2-5号/
这里是琰琰和雷杰的世外桃源，透着一种朴素的美学。夫妻二人坚守着宁静的生活方式和匠人的执着，把情感揉进泥土，让冰冷的陶瓷有了温度。
器皿的一端连接了具象的食物与情感，另一端则连接了抽象的美学概念，雷杰用了很多年，经过无数次尝试，只为烧出心中那一抹黑与白。黑和白是静止的，缓慢的，很难察觉到它细微而隐藏的美。雷杰看了太多白色的器物，白驹以及晓白是他近些年的理解。过去的白一直在追求极致，不允许有任何瑕疵。而在当下，却是可以保留住一点儿瑕疵的。不用多，一点点，可能是有缺陷的，但是也挺好。黑一直是最难的，一切在黑的包围下，都是那么的无力……但雷杰认为，黑也有冷暖，就好像雀儿傍晚归巢时，印在墙上的黑色影子，好似他记忆里儿时的乌衣巷，它就是暖的。
桃山房Studio的气质在陶艺街上显得十分突出，主理人雷杰和琰琰因心习陶，喜物制陶，食米造碗，设计已经完全融入在他们的生活中。
10:00 自变量
/珠山区陶艺街/
对于所有因陶瓷而来到景德镇的年轻人来说，这座城市提供了完整、便捷的原材料供应链和传统的手工技术，每一道工序都有成熟的匠人，即使对陶瓷制作一无所知，也能很快地从零开始学起，或是买到现成的材料添加一点儿小设计，很容易就能找到烧窑的老师傅烧制出成品。
孙帆在这里寻找着器皿与食物之间的连接，传统与现代，传承与创新，让她创作有了新的思考和表达。她爱着景德镇的野性和蓬勃，爱着它的自由和从容，她深知等待惊喜需要耐心，就像开窑时的未知和惊喜，所以从容地按照自己的节奏工作和生活，大部分日子都躲在山上的工作室烧瓷，偶尔才带着两只猫下山转转。
自变量的主理人孙帆活得自由洒脱，大部分时间在山上烧陶，偶尔和两只小猫下山。
11:00 乐窑
/珠山区陶艺街/
火焰能锻造出冷静的激情，典雅中能蕴含强力的意志。在运营之初，留纯阳只想做些给自己玩的东西。他从不依靠灵感，归纳、演绎与实证更为重要。在他眼中，绘画是某种以图形为媒介的视觉心理学，乐窑正是建立在这个逻辑基础之上的。古人很多成熟的绘画语言，都与当时的科技材料有关，结构决定算法，如何把2D语言运用到有体积的瓷器上，需要多种经验和技巧转换。他通过李白《惜樽空》畅饮盛唐的酣畅，以苏轼《定风波》和黄庭坚《问茶杯》品味宋人的才情脱俗，不久前还致敬了曹操的《短歌行》，感受汉诗的伟大。留纯阳还在宋代的骷髅幻戏图中加入了自己的想法，让它的意思更为模糊，给人更多玩味和思考的空间。
12:30 御窑博物馆
/沿江东路外滩1号/
博物馆由8个大小不一、体量各异的线状砖拱形结构组成，沿南北长向布置，若即若离，有实有虚，以谦逊的态度和恰当的尺度植入于复杂的地段之中。这里不仅是景德镇城市的起源，更是人们赖以生存的生活和交往空间。它保存着与这座城市的生命不可切割的记忆温度——从前孩童在冬天上学路上，会从路过的瓷窑上捡一块滚热的压窑砖塞进书包再抱在怀中，借着砖的温度，挨过半日寒冬。
13:30 御窑厂国家遗址公园
/珠山中路187号/
御窑厂曾是明清两代为供应宫廷所需瓷器而设立的机构，景德镇的前世，都在这里。窑火已经熄灭多年，却不难在御窑厂遗址里找到珍藏的吉光片羽。从南门进去，两侧分别是明代作坊遗址和珠山南麓明代窑炉遗址，在断壁残垣中，依稀可见老御窑厂当年的生产状态。
14:00 啄老家庭厨房
/珠山区童宾路30号/
除了名声在外每桌必点的辣椒炒肉，瓦罐汤也是这里不变的主角。小瓦罐在瓦缸内煨几个小时，美味的秘诀正是来自本土的瓦罐。
16:00 闲云夏布工作室
/三宝路118号/
日拱一卒，一寸有一寸的欢喜。夏布是指以苎麻为原材料，采用绩麻成线的方式织造的面料，也是国家级的非物质文化遗产。多年来，主理人四把刀专注于夏布的文化挖掘和传播、工艺研究和复原，自2018年起启动“万载计划”，从苎麻的种植开始，尝试恢复高规格的夏布织造工艺，目前可以织造出国内最细腻的夏布面料（每平方英寸经纬纱数目之和约200条）。
闲云夏布工作室多年来专注于夏布的文化发掘、工艺和复原，从苎麻种植开始尝试恢复夏布的织造工艺，目前能织出国内最细腻的夏布面料。
19:30 一夕餐厅
/三宝路110号/
集民宿、茶文化和私房菜为一体，通过对生活的敏锐感知，打造出移步换景、反映四季变化的江南风景，是三宝街一道亮丽的风景线。
三宝村的一幢幢屋舍或依山而建，或逐水而栖，在满目苍翠之间和谐共存。
景德镇因瓷闻名，却又不只有瓷器。这里有工匠、有艺术、有生意、有生活。来探索景德镇吧！也许你会发现不一样的自己。
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